Tuesday, June 30, 2009

Reader Question - Trimming Natural Hair

One reader sent me a lovely email with this question:

How do you know when it is time for a cut vs. a trim?

I truly think this depends on how your ends look, feel, and how often you use heat. Also, if you manipulate your hair frequently with tools (combs, brushes, pics, etc) it may require that you attend to your ends more. If you notice splitting, multiple single-strand knots (fairy knots), or bubbles in your strands, I would trim them off. Some people opt to ignore those pesky fairy knots while others can't stand them and hack them off whenever they pop up.

Since being natural for 10 years, I rarely ever CUT my hair (I mean over an inch at a time). I did once for style purposes by cutting my BSL hair into an above-the-shoulders bob. Then, of course, I cut it again 2 yrs ago due to severe heat damage. Since then, I have not cut off more than an inch at a time.
I personally like to snip the ends of my twists every few months or so. I don't have an actual schedule but if things start looking weird (which they don't too often considering I don't use much heat at all), I just twist up and take 1/8th-1/4th of an inch. If you have really bad ends, you might want to take an inch or so off and then be very careful about protecting them in the future.

Here are some sites that offer tips to trimming/dusting/cutting natural hair; I've excerpted parts that I found to be particularly helpful:


Clutch Mag Online

I would describe dusting as cutting less than an inch of your ends. When my ends start to feel crunchy, or I hear popping when I detangle, or start to see tiny hairs in the sink that are not old shed hairs (with white bulbs at the tips) I dust my ends. I usually do this about once every two to three months. Some people follow lunar cycles when it comes to trimming/cutting their hair. They cut on certain days of the week to lengthen, strengthen, thicken etc. hair. I can not testify to it’s results, but it is a good way to keep a hair trimming routine. Check out Morrocco Method International’s downloadable lunar haircutting chart.

Long Health Hair Advisor and Here
If you wear your hair straight - even occasionally - you'll want to have your hair trimmed when it is straight. How straight do you need it to be? Well, it depends. You can get your hair trimmed with a blow out or you can have it flat ironed bone straight for a trim. Trimming
natural hair when it's straight will provide a more precise trim that is also visually appealing when your hair is worn in straight hair styles.

Also, if your hair tends to knot around itself at the ends, you will need to trim more often than someone who does not have that problem - despite using heat. Generally speaking, a schedule of 2-6 months should be used depending on your personal goals, styles, and hair condition.

MotownGirl

Nappturality Forum
On damp hair, make small to medium sized twists all over your head. Twisting your hair like this will also help you really get a chance to feel all of your ends. Split ends, knotted ends, frayed ends -- if you have any, your hair will feel really rough when you get to the ends of your twists. Snip your ends.


Natural Black Hair Care

With one hand, hold the comb, and insert the comb into the section of hair. Gently pull up the comb until only the ends of the hair are sticking out of the teeth of the comb. With the other comb use high quality hair scissors to clip the ends of the hair. Repeat for each section.


Perfect Dreadlocks
The best way to cut it is like a flower, cut it at an angle and then put a rubber band around the tip and rub the tip against the palm of your hand everyday for about 2 days and then take the rubber band out.


And of course, for all you visual people out there, check out these You Tube vids for more trimming how-to's:
Rustic Beauty (LUV HER!)
SapphyreDreams

How do you guys trim your hair? Or do you prefer to have a stylist do it?

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